Pawprints In The Garden

Snow in London

It rarely snows properly in London. Today it did.

What is Ashura?

Apologies for the media quality, my iPhone was the only option at the time.

With the current spate of student riots in the capital, I was not too surprised to come across a march running through Notting Hill Gate while I was looking for my dad's birthday card. Arabic banners, proximity to the Israeli embassy - it looked at first like just another group of activists chanting their chants.

But this was no protest - it was a celebration. I spoke to Dr. Saleem Hadi of Al-Islam about the meaning behind the drum-and-banner-toting parade.
Ashura is a celebration of Imam El Hussain and his matyrdom for the Islamic faith.
Who was he? - The grandson of Muhammad, the prophet of Islam. Also successor to the Prophet and a guide to mankind. He was martyed in 681 CE on the plains of Kerbala, near the banks of the historic Euphrates river in Iraq.
Hussein was mercilessly executed along with 72 members of his family, including his 6 month old son, after being denied access to water for three days

The reason?
Hussein refused to pay allegiance to Yazin, the then despotic Muslim ruler of Arabia.

This procession that runs from Marble Arch to Holland Park, is symbolic of the stand taken by Hussein against Yazid's tyranny and an emulation of the parading that the martyrs' family had to undergo by force from Kerbala, Iraq, to Damascus, Syria, via an irregular 1600km route for 3 weeks under inhumane conditions.
The celebration endeavors to manifest the divinely ordained duty of the followers of Islam to raise their voices against all forms of oppression and terrorism.
It expresses solidarity with all the oppressed and for freedom of speech and expression.
The participants recite eulogies on Hussain and beat their chests as a mark of sorrow.

There is moderation in all things. Why I love London is that you can always find it here. Cheesy kicker, I know, but as an outsider what would you have presumed the march was about by just looking at the photos and videos? Comments, as always, welcome.

Back Online

So back from University and in London. It's amazing how dismissive most people seem to be of the anti-fee protesters here. Even the BBC, left as it comes, has taken on a patronizing tone towards the protesters.
Considering the prices in the U.S., the changes can seem inconsequential. Of course, they are not, so this will be interesting to follow...

Party at St. Blaise

Sorry for the delay, a short holiday away from the computer screen.

This summer in the Old Town there has been occasional street parties. This is one based on the steps of the Church of St. Blaise.

Fort Lovrjenac

 A major defensive outpost against attacks from the Republic's rivals, most famously the Venetians.  Opposite the fort is a waterway under the walls through which a traitor once led enemy soldiers into the city when the main street, Stradun, was still a canal.

In more modern times it is best-known as a performance venue, once showing Hamlet with Lawrence Olivier in the lead role.

Morgan Freeman

In town for the Dubrovnik Film Meeting, Freeman greeted the crowds outside a screening of the film 'Invictus', before heading off to a private party. 

One fan insisted on handing him her card.

The Gaffe

An Irish pub run by a Liverpudlian called Alan.  

If you want a fry-up, burger, chips (fries), vinegar on your chips (fries), a bacon sandwich, HP sauce on your bacon sandwich, go here.  

For cider, Guinness or any good pint, go here.  

If you want sport, most definitely go here.

Walking the Walls

Just do it.

Mea Culpa

As the name, "My Guilt", suggests, Mea Culpa serves good and extremely filling pizza.  Always a queue at peak hours.

The Fountain

A source of pride for those in the Old Town. A historic part of Dubrovnik, it was shelled in the war but has since been restored.

German Modern Art

A piece of modern art I rather like.  By a German artist, it was built to celebrate independance in the modern era.  Just outside Pile Gate

Nautika and Gil's

Widely-toted, but basically crap.  So don't bother.

Poklisar

In the old port. This is a family-run restaurant with good food, service and a great location. In the evening the live music adds to the atmosphere. Possibly my favorite.

Gradska Kavana

Been around forever, this is where you sit and watch the world go by from a slightly elevated position.

Cele, Orlando, Festival

These are good cafes to sit and watch the world go by.

Watching the world go by

Sitting in a cafe on Stradun and watching people walk past seems like a strange pastime, but in Dubrovnik it is just part of the experience.

Swimming

Whatever you do, swim.

Steak House Domino

A landmark restaurant.  They do great steak and always have done.

Saint Blaise's Church

The Church of St. Blaise, my namesake.  The patron saint of throats, he saved a boy from choking to death on a bone by the sign of the cross.  Originally Armenian, he is Dubrovnik's patron saint.  Atop every archway is his figure, holding the town in his hand.

JournoList

http://www.washingtonpost.com/wp-dyn/content/article/2010/07/22/AR2010072206024.html

Aaaaaah....

Orlando's Statue

Built in 1427, the statue of Roland (alias Orlando, Hruodland and others) stands in front of the Church of St. Blaise.  A knight of Charlemagne and a prominent figure throughout Europe and European history since the 9th century, it was erected as a symbol of the freedom of the Ragusan Republic.  A freedom that is, due to the events of recent years as well as the past, especially poignant.

Richard the Lionheart's Cathedral

The Cathedral up ahead was built at the bequest of the 12th Century English King, Richard I (or Richard the Lionheart), as a token of thanks to Dubrovnik.  When his ship was caught in a storm he sought refuge in the town and the people welcomed him graciously. 

The building itself has since been rebuilt, but the original foundations remain.

Karmen: The Goal

For most of my life, this goal was just graffiti on the wall.

Karmen

Karmen is one of the oldest parts of the walled city.  It is on the side closest to the sea, and has historically been known as the poorer section of the Old Town, though the term hardly applies now.

It is a labyrinthine, casbah-like place.  You can find in it the most obvious remnants of the early 1990s war: rubble and stray cats are still quite visible.  Thankfully, the Old Town's has been restored zealously over the years.